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Jun 05 02 02:04p Elite Iv Contractors Inc 2094616342 s, r .I 7 r rt: ,`--, '`-"RE IR PROCEDURES-- -,,.---,-----REPAIR For damaged pipe and for leaking joints, FGS Smith Fibercast recommends only the repair methods listed below. ' DO NOTattempt to repair damaged fittings. Always pressure test repair work before putting the line back into service to assure the soundness of the repaired section. Contact your local FGS representative for further information. During repair, the pipeline cannot be under pressure, and the area to be repaired must be clean and dry throughout the ' procedure. Pipe Patching Follow these instructions to repair pipe wall damage where the damaged area it two inches (50 mm) or less in i diameter: For 2" pipe, cut the protective mesh covering and slide away from damaged area. Cut a length of good pipe long enough to adequately cover the damaged area and extend at least three inches (75 mm) (and preferably four inches/900 mm) to either side of the damaged area. Latch --► Damage • Slit the "patch" lengthwise twice and remove a section so that about three-fourths of the circumference remains. • Thoroughly sand the inner surface of the patch and sand a corresponding area on the pipe around the damaged section. Use coarse sand- paper, a file, or a disc sander to remove all gloss from the surface to be bonded. • If solvent is used to clean all bonding surface, allow the solvent to evaporate then apply a thick coating of adhesive to both surfaces, snap the patch in place, and apply pressure with hose clamps or banding material until the adhesive hardens. The clamps may be left on or removed after heat curing. • Replace the protective mesh covering if the repair is made on 2" pipe. 1 i 'airing Extensive Damage When the damaged area in the pipe wall is larger than inches (50 mm) in diameter, follow these instructions: For 2" pipe, cut the protective mesh covering and slide away from damaged area, When damage is local (less than two inches/50 mm long but more than two inches/50 mm around the circumference of the pipe), check to see if there is enough slack in the pipe to cut out the damaged section. If so, cut out the damaged section, retaper the cut ends, and bond a sleeve coupling between the tapered ends. Make sure the joints are locked up and fully cured before pressure testing the repair. I If the pipe is buried, excavate a working area large i enough to allow for tapering tool rotation. Taper the cut ends !of the pipeline and install the sleeve coupling. • When damage is extensive (too large for replacement by a sleeve coupling), cut out the damaged section, taper the cut ends, and install two sleeve couplings and a pipe j nipple. This procedure requires sufficient slack in the line to make the final joint by lifting the pipe (or moving the pipe to one side) to engage the bell and spigot joint. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove additional backfill from a buried line to allow the pipeline movement of several feet. - Cut out the damaged section of pipe, - Taper one end of a piece of pipe at least as long as the damaged section. When tapering, carefully observe the position of the nipple on the tapering tool. This taper will be used as a gauge. Cut this nipple to the proper length in the following steps. - When pipe is buried, excavate a working area large enough to allow for tapering tool rotation. Taper the cut ends of the pipeline and install the two sleeve couplings. Cure these joints and then measure the gap between the sleeve couplings. Determine the proper length of the pipe nipple. This length is the sum of the distance between the two sleeve couplings, the insertion length of the tapered ends, and an adidtional "wet" make- up length to assure joint lock up. To determine the insertion length of the tapered ends, move one of the couplings to the side and use the end of the repair nipple made in the previous step to determind the dry fit into each bell. (NOTE: The dry fit must be very tight, i.e. use a 2x4 to drive the joint together tightly enough that it is difficult to separate.) The total length of the repair nipple is determined by adding these two measurements to the distance between the sleeve couplings and then adding the two make-up dimensions from Table 9. 14