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�u <br />fIBERCLASS <br />For damaged pipe and for leaking <br />joints, Smith Fiberglass Products rec- <br />ommends only the repair methods <br />listed below. DO NOT attempt to <br />repair damaged fittings. Always pres- <br />sure test repair work before putting <br />the line back into service to assure the <br />soundness of the repaired section. <br />Contact your local Smith Fiberglass <br />Products' representative for further <br />information. <br />During repair, the pipeline cannot be <br />under pressure, and the area to be <br />repaired must be clean and dry <br />throughout the procedure. <br />1.8.1 Repairing weather damage <br />When machined surfaces of pipe or <br />fittings are exposed to direct sunlight <br />prior to installation, the result is a loss <br />of joint bonding strength. Therefore, <br />if protective coverings have been re- <br />moved and ultraviolet exposure was <br />greater than one day, the following <br />steps must be taken: <br />1. For exposed spigot ends, cut 1/2" <br />to 1 " 03 to 25mm) off the end and <br />retaper. This will remove the <br />weathered layer and give a fresh <br />surface for bonding. For fittings <br />with spigot ends, it is sometimes <br />possible to lightly sand the spigot <br />using the same procedure as for <br />bell ends. <br />Om � I �_M! W� MW4- <br />Figure 1.8.1 <br />2. For exposed bell ends (pipe or <br />fittings), sand thoroughly until the <br />entire surface appears fresh. Hand <br />sanding with 40 grit sandpaper is <br />recommended. A flapper sander <br />of about 40 grit mounted on an <br />electric hand drill also works well; <br />however, use a light sanding op- <br />eration to prevent changing the <br />taper angle. <br />Note: The use of solvent does not <br />remove ultraviolet degradation. <br />COUPLINGS OR INTEGRAL BELLS <br />WITH T.A.B. THREADS THAT HAVE <br />BEEN OVEREXPOSED MUST BE RE- <br />PLACED. <br />1.8.2 Pipe patching <br />Follow these instructions to repair <br />pipe wall damage where the dam- <br />aged area is two inches (50mm) or <br />less in diameter. <br />1. Cut a length of good pipe long <br />enough to adequately cover the <br />darxiaged area and extend at least <br />three inches (75mm; (and prefer- <br />ablyfour inches/100 mm) to either <br />side of the damaged area (See <br />Figure 1.8.1). <br />2. Slit this "patch" lengthwise twice <br />and remove a section so that about <br />three-fourths of the circumference <br />remains (See Figure 1.8.2). <br />s-, <br />Figure 1.8.2 <br />23 <br />3. Thoroughly sand the innersurface <br />of the patch and sand a corre- <br />sponding area on the pipe around <br />the damaged section (See Figure <br />1.8.3). Use coarse sandpaper, a <br />file, or a disc sander to remove all <br />gloss from the surfaces to be <br />bonded. <br />4. If solvent is used to clean all <br />bonding surfaces, allow the sol- <br />vent to evaporate, then .apply a <br />thick coating of adhesive to both <br />surfaces, snap the patch in place, <br />and apply pressure with hose <br />clamps or banding material until <br />the adhesive hardens (See Figure <br />1.8.4). The clamps may be left on <br />or removed after heat curing, de- <br />pending on their salvage value. <br />1.8.3 Repairing extensive damage <br />When the damaged area in the pipe <br />wall is larger than two inches (50 <br />mm) in diameter, follow these in- <br />structions. <br />1. When damage is local (less than <br />two inches/50 mm long, but more <br />than two inches/50mm around the <br />circumference of the pipe), check <br />to see if there is enough slack in the <br />pipe to cut out the damaged sec- <br />tion. If there is enough slack, cut <br />out the damaged section, retaper <br />Figure 1.8.3 <br />