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u b. If the heating collar will not close, tie a string or wire around the collar to hold it in place. c. Halfway through the cure time, rotate the heating collar 180 degrees to assure complete coverage of the bonding area. d. Note: The next larger size heating collar can be used to cure thick wall fittings joints (such as el- bows and tees). When a larger size is used, the heating collar does not have to be rotated, but the cure time remains as shown. 3. Curing flange joints Flange joints may be heat cured by revers- ing the heating collar and plac- ing it inside the assembled joint (see Fig. 1.6.20). Use the paper I FIGURE 1.6.20 towels provided in the adhesive kit to remove excess adhesive from the end of the spigot (inside the joint). Remove most of the adhesive from the inside of the flange by wiping with dry paper towels. Use paper towels wetted with solvent to complete the clean up. Use only enough solvent to wet out the paper towels, and never pour the solvent into the joint. To hold the heating collar in place, make a "flange clamp" by cutting a section of the same size pipe and then removing a 90 degree section of the wall. Also, adding slits (axial cuts) in this clamp will make it more flexible. The heating collar can be wrapped around the flange clamp with the heat- ing surface fac- ing outward. Axial Cuts / The clamp can / then be insert- / ed to cover the bonded joint 190, / (see Fig. 1.6.21). —+® (Note: If it is 1 Flange difficult to Clamp compress the flange clamp, FIGURE 1.6.21 use hose clamps to hold the flange clamp during insertion.) DO NOT INSERT the clamp/collar more than halfway into the joint, or it will be difficult to remove. Clamp length must be longer than the width of the heating collar to aid in removal. ZMM SECTION 6 ♦ Installation 4. Curing with Smith Heat Packs (chemical heat packs) Smith Heat Packs, which cure joints in approximately one hour, are also available (see Fig. 1.6.22). Complete instructions for these heat packs are included with each kit (Bulletin No. 4500). Observe all safety precau- tions listed on the in- struction sheets that accompany the heat packs. Note: Do not use chemical heat packs to cure saddles. FIGURE 1.6.22 The overall effectiveness of chemical heat packs de- pends on ambient temperature. When ambient tem- perature falls below 32°F (0° C) -either air temperature or wind chill -Smith Fiberglass Products recommends that an insulation blanket be used to sustain proper curing temperature. Insulation is available from Smith Fiberglass Products. To dispose of expired or damaged chemical heat packs, follow this procedure carefully: a. Wear eye protection and gloves. b. In a well -ventilated area, thoroughly mix the two dry chemicals in the kit bag or other dry container. Mix only one kit at a time. c. Use a metal bucket for disposal. DO NOT USE A PLASTIC CONTAINER; during disposal, enough heat to melt plastics is generated. d. After the dry chemicals are thoroughly mixed, pour the dry chemicals into the metal bucket; then add one pint (one-half liter) of cold water. e. Let the kit react until it neutralizes and heat dissi- pates. The mixture will look like plaster. Be sure the kit is thoroughly mixed with the water and there are no lumps. If there are lumps, stir the mix- ture to dissolve them before mixing the next kit. f. Then, mix the next kit using the same procedure. NOTE: After the solution is neutralized, it is non- hazardous and may be disposed of. REMEMBER: MIX ONLY ONE KIT AT A TIME. lW