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Primary Piping System Installation <br /> REPAIR PROCEDURES <br /> For damaged pipe and for leaking joints, FGS Smith <br /> Fibercast recommends only the repair methods listed below. <br /> DO NOT attempt to repair damaged fittings. Always pressure Repairing Extensive Damage <br /> test repair work before putting the line back into service to When the damaged area in the pipe wall is larger than <br /> assure the soundness of the repaired section. Contact your two inches(50 mm) in diameter,follow these instructions: <br /> local FGS representative for further information. <br /> • For 2" pipe, cut the protective mesh covering and slide <br /> During repair,the pipeline cannot be under pressure,and away from damaged area, <br /> the area to be repaired must be clean and dry throughout the • When damage is local(less than two inches/50 mm long <br /> procedure. but more than two inches/50 mm around the <br /> circumference of the pipe), check to see if there is <br /> Pipe Patching enough slack in the pipe to cut out the damaged section. <br /> Follow these instructions to repair pipe wall damage If so,cut out the damaged section, retaper the cut ends, <br /> where the damaged area is two inches (50 mm) or less in and bond a sleeve coupling between the tapered ends. <br /> diameter: Make sure the joints are locked up and fully cured before <br /> pressure testing the repair. <br /> • For 2" pipe, cut the protective mesh covering and slide <br /> away from damaged area. If the pipe is buried, excavate a working area large <br /> • Cut a length of good pipe long enough to adequately enough to allow for tapering tool rotation. Taper the cut ends <br /> cover the damaged area and extend at least three inches of the pipeline and install the sleeve coupling. <br /> (75 mm) (and preferably four inches/100 mm) to either <br /> • When damage is extensive(too large for replacement by <br /> a sleeve coupling), cut out the damaged section, taper <br /> the cut ends,and install two sleeve couplings and a pipe <br /> nipple. This procedure requires sufficient slack in the <br /> Patch —► Damage line to make the final joint by lifting the pipe (or moving <br /> the pipe to one side)to engage the bell and spigot joint. <br /> Therefore, it may be necessary to remove additional <br /> side of the damaged area. backfill from a buried line to allow the pipeline movement <br /> • Slit the "patch" lengthwise of several feet. <br /> twice and remove a section – Cut out the damaged section of pipe, <br /> so that about three-fourths of – Taper one end of a piece of pipe at least as long <br /> the circumference remains. as the damaged section. When tapering,carefully <br /> • Thoroughly sand the inner observe the position of the nipple on the tapering <br /> surface of the patch and sand tool. This taper will be used as a gauge. Cut this <br /> a corresponding area on the nipple to the proper length in the following steps. <br /> pipe around the damaged – When pipe is buried, excavate a working area <br /> section. Use coarse sand- large enough to allow for tapering tool rotation. <br /> paper, a file, or a disc sander Taper the cut ends of the pipeline and install the <br /> to remove all gloss from two sleeve couplings. Cure these joints and then <br /> the surface to be bonded. _ measure the gap between the sleeve couplings. <br /> • If solvent is used to clean Determine the proper length of the pipe nipple. <br /> all bonding surfaces, allow the This length is the sum of the distance between <br /> solvent to evaporate then the two sleeve couplings, the insertion length of <br /> apply a thick coating of the tapered ends, and an adidtional "wet' make- <br /> adhesive to both surfaces, snap the patch in place, up length to assure joint lock up. <br /> and apply pressure with hose clamps or banding material <br /> until the adhesive hardens. The clamps may be left on To determine the insertion length of the tapered ends, <br /> or removed after heat curing. move one of the couplings to the side and use the end of <br /> • Replace the protective mesh covering if the repair is the repair nipple made in the previous step to determine the <br /> made on 2"pipe. dry fit into each bell. (NOTE: The dry fit must be very tight, <br /> i.e. use a 2x4 to drive the joint together tightly enough that it <br /> is difficult to separate.) The total length of the repair nipple <br /> is determined by adding these two measurements to the <br /> 14 <br />