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8. Inspect the exposed floats for freedom of <br />movement or damage. These floats should slide <br />back and forth on the guide bar freely, if there <br />is any binding, the guide bar may be bent. If <br />necessary, straighten this guide bar (see Figure D). <br />9. Inspect the linkage connecting the floats to the <br />valve operating mechanism. This linkage should be <br />clean and intact (see Figure D). <br />Figure D <br />10. insert the 1/8" T -handled he <br />wrench into the open <br />hole until it makes contact with the internal valve <br />Figure E <br />11. While holding both floats from sliding away from <br />the inserted hex wrench, lightly try to push the hex <br />wrench further into the hole. The flapper should <br />stay in the locked position and not move closed. <br />If the flapper closes, the latching mechanism is <br />defective and valve must be replaced. <br />12. Slide the float closest to the hex wrench away from <br />the wrench. You should now be able to easily push <br />the hex wrench further into the hole. This will close <br />the first stage valve flapper (see Figure F). <br />Figure F <br />13. With the hex wrench inserted until it will not go any <br />further, the first stage valve flapper should stay in <br />the closed position. Using a flashlight, you can now <br />see this by looking in from the top of the drop tube <br />Figure G <br />14. Slide the second float away from the hex wrench <br />(see Figure H). This will release the valve's second <br />stage flapper (see Figure 1). <br />Figure H <br />Figure J <br />15. Remove the hex wrench from the inspection port. <br />The valve's internal flappers should return to their <br />open positions. To verify that the flapper has reset <br />and re -latched, re-insert the hex wrench and repeat <br />Steps 10 & 11. If the flapper did not reset, replace <br />the valve. <br />11 <br />