COMPLIANCE INFO 2018 - Laserfiche WebLink

Home Browse Search

• Avoid personal contact with the piping system while it is pressurized during testing except for actual checking of the joints for leaks. Absolutely no one should be in the trench while the pipe is being initially pressurized for leak testing. Notify all site personnel before beginning the testing procedure. • Do not straddle the pipe during testing or while checking the piping system for possible leaks. • While the pipe is being checked for leaks, do not stand at the end of the piping system or where it changes directions. CAUTION: Failure to strictly follow these instructions can result in serious personal injury, death, and/or property damage. • After the piping has passed the 50 psig (0.345 MPa) pressure test, we recommend the contractor reduce the product line pressure to a pressure of not more than 25 psig (0.172 MPa) and maintain this pressure until all paving has been completed. Leave pressure gauge on each line for inspection. The contractor should check the gauge daily to verify the pipe is holding pressure. If a leak is encountered during the test procedure, immediately release all pressure in the piping system and refer to page 11 for proper repair procedures. Upon completing any necessary repairs to the piping system, follow the proper testing sequence and verify the system's integrity. Vaouum or Inert Gas Test Prooedures Testing with vacuum and/or pressurized inert gases have been successfully used with our piping systems. Although helium testing in a closed atmosphere and at measured levels is useful, testing in the field with helium has shown inconsistencies when attempting to identify leak location. Do not use these testing procedures for Red Thread IIA sec- ondary containment piping systems. Refer to page 17. REPAIR PROCEDURES For damaged pipe, NOV Fiber Glass Systems recommends only the repair methods listed below. DO NOT attempt to repair damaged fittings. Always pressure test repair work before putting the line back into service to assure the soundness of the repaired section. Contact your local representative for further information. During repair, the pipeline should not be under pressure, and the area to be repaired must be clean and dry throughout the procedure. Pipe Patching Follow these instructions to repair pipe wail damage where the damaged area is two inches (50 mm) or less in diameter: For 2" pipe, out the protective rnesh covering and slide away from damaged area. Cut a length of good pipe long enough to adequately cover the damaged area and extend at least three inches 75 mm) and preferably four inches (100 mm) to either side ofthe damaged area. Path ""•`� • Slit the "patch" lengthwise twice and remove a section so that about three-fourths of the circumference remains. • Thoroughly sand the inner surface of the patch and sand a corresponding area on the pipe around the damaged section. Use coarse sandpaper, a file, or a disc sander to remove all gloss from the surface to be bonded. • if solvent is used to clean all bonding surfaces, allow the solvent to evaporate then apply`, a thick coating adhesive to both surfaces, snap the patch �. _ in place, and apply pressure :] with hose clamps or banding material until the adhesive hardens. The clamps may be left on or removed after curing. • Replace the protective mesh covering if the repair is made on 2" pipe. Repairing Extensive Damage When the damaged area in the pipe wall is larger than two inches (50 mm) in diameter, follow these instructions: For 2" pipe, cut the protective mesh covering and slide away from damaged area. When damage is local (less than two inches/50 mm long but more than two inches/50 mm around the circumference of the pipe), check to see if there is enough slack in the pipe to cut out the damaged section. If so, cut out the damaged section, retaper the cut ends, and bond a sleeve coupling between the tapered ends. Make sure the joints are locked up and fully cured before pressure testing the repair. If the pipe is buried, excavate a working area large enough to allow for tapering tool rotation. Taper the out ends of the pipeline and install the sleeve coupling. When damage is extensive (too large for replacement by a sleeve coupling), cut out the damaged section, taper the cut ends, and install two sleeve couplings and a pipe nipple. This procedure requires sufficient slack in the line to make the final joint by lifting the pipe (or moving the pipe to one side) to engage the bell and spigot joint. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove additional backfill from a buried line to allow the pipeline movement of several feet. — Out out the damaged section of pipe, — Taper one end of a piece of pipe at least as long as the damaged section. This taper will be used as a gauge. Out this nipple to the proper length in the following steps. To determine the insertion length of the tapered ends, move one of the couplings to the side and use the end of the repair nipple made in the previous step to determine the dry fit into each bell. (NOTE: The dry fit must be very tight, i.e. use additional force to drive the joint together tightly enough that it is difficult to separate.) The total length of the repair nipple is determined by adding these two measurements to the distance between the sleeve couplings and then adding the two make-up dimensions from Table 9. P;,