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CUT END AS SQUARE AS POSSIBLE i SCRIBE GUIDE LINE ON LARGE DIAMETER PIPE AS A CUTTING GUIDE J f COUNTER -CLOCKWISE FACING END OF PIPE r. BE DOUBLY SURE TOOL HOLDER IS SET AT PROPER ANGLE J C CLEAN BOTH SPIGOT AND BELL END APPLY ADHESIVE TO BOTH SPIGOT AND BELL ENDS USE STAB AND TURN MOTION THREADED ADAPTERS Cutting, tapering and jo assembly. Cutting: Cutting RED THREAD II glass fiber pipe is easily accomplished using a fine-toothed hacksaw blade. The cut end should be as square as possible so re -tapering can be done more easily. On 3" or 4" diameter pipe a line should first be scribed around the pipe for the blade to follow. Tapering: Assemble the tapering tool according to the instructions contained in the kit. Make certain that: 1. The tool holder is set at the proper tapering angle. The taper angle for 2", 3" and 4" pipe should be 1 %0. Note: if old style blade holder is used, the blade angle should be set at 1 %z° . 2. The tool blade is inserted correctly. The wide side of the blade will lead as the tapering tool is turned counterclockwise. Insert the mandrel into the pipe end. Turn the tapering tool in a counterclockwise direction. The initial cut should be very gradual to true the surface. Continue tapering until the length of the taper is approximately 2". Continue rotating the tool as it is removed so that the taper is smooth. The field -made taper should insert into a fitting the same depth as a factory taper i%a". If the taper length is correct, reinsert the tapering tool into the field -made taper and place a mark on the blade holder in line with the end of the pipe. Use this mark to reproduce factory tapers. 3. If a pipe or chain vise is used, xhe pipe must be protected. Cut lengthwise through a 4" long piece of the same diameter pipe. Place both halves around the pipe to prevent damage to the pipe wall. Joint assembly for tapered bell and spigot. 1. Clean all of the tapered surfaces with cleaner and clean paper towels. 2. Prewarm the surfaces at temperatures below 70° F. Use a propane torch with flame spreadertip, electric heating collar or other handy heat source. 3. Apply adhesive to both surfaces. Make sure adhesive is placed deep down into bell. NOTE: Follow adhesive mixing instructions on first page. 4. Use a stab and turn motion until lock-up is achieved. a. Insert spigot in the bell until surfaces touch, then push and turn at the same time. Approximately turn is necessary; then stop turning and push. Apply pressure until mechanical lock is achieved. When the spigot is in as far as it will go, test the locking action by turning. On 4" diameter pipe and on fittings, turning is impractical, and driving force must be used. To obtain maximum joint strength with any size, it may be necessary to drive the joint together to achieve a thinner glue line. This can be done with a rubber hammer, or use a piece of wood to protect the bell end of the pipe and drive it together with a hammer. Excessive force should not be used, particularly on the 2" size. b. If the adhesive is cool and viscous, or if the pipe surfaces are cool, push and hold for a few seconds to let the trapped air escape, then test again by turning the spigot and bell. (Pre- heating the bonding surfaces will eliminate most of this problem.) 5. Avoid pulling tension on previously installed joints prior to curing to reduce the chance of separation. Tying in to steel or other pipe: Two connections are provided — threaded adapters and flanges. These hints will help to do a thorough job, Threaded adapters — when using this adapter, thread it into the steel pipe orfitting before bonding onto the RED THREAD II pipe. Use non- metallic based thread dope equivalent to Rector Seal *5 on fiberglass threaded adapters. Do not use thread sealing tapes. Tighten adapters to the following torques: 2"-30 ft./lbs., 3"-35 ft./lbs., 4"-40 ft./lbs. A nylon strap wrench should be placed on the unmachined surface just behind the threaded area. CAUTION: Do not over -tighten. Tighten the adapters as if they were brass or other soft material.