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STEP 3 <br />Pushing back <br />existing bolts <br />Protect pipe <br />against any <br />damage <br />STEP 4 <br />STEP 5 <br />STRIPE MARK <br />mark across the <br />wall and all <br />components <br />DRY FIT <br />ONLY <br />COMPLETE ❑ <br />Before starting work, ensure all fuels <br />and flammables have been removed. <br />Test/monitor your LEL's and ventilate. <br />Push the bolts back into the backfill. <br />Most bolts move backwards easily. <br />DO NOT DAMAGE THE SUMP WALL! <br />Properly protect your piping from power <br />or sharp tools. DO NOT DAMAGE PIPE! <br />CCOMPLETE ❑ <br />Proceed to grind your walls clean of any <br />paint, gel -coat, epoxies, adhesives or <br />sealants until open fiberglass is clearly <br />visible 3 INCHES AWAY FROM THE <br />HOLE, all the way around. <br />WARNING! For steel sumps, you must <br />be extremely careful about sparking <br />when abrading. If the steel is epoxy <br />coated, it must be removed. You can only <br />bond the Retrofit -S fitting to bare, clean <br />and abraded steel. <br />CCOMPLETE ❑ <br />SECURE ALL CONDUIT LINES BY <br />BRACKETING THEM TO AT LEAST ONE <br />RIGIDLY CONNECTED CONDUIT OR <br />THE RISER. DO NOT ALLOW CONDUIT <br />ENDPOINTS TO MOVE OR ACT AS A LEVER. <br />FLAT WALLS: Dry fit the body on your pipe and <br />use a marker to outline the fittings position on the <br />wall. The curved flange will not be used. <br />CURVED WALLS: Dry fit the body and the curved <br />flange and use a marker to mark a large stripe <br />across the sump wall, body and flange. Also <br />outline the fittings position when dry fit. <br />0 8 0 ii -F -Series -Retrofit -S -15A <br />